firmware 110 problems SOLVED !!

[stupsi099]

The update to 110 is the only version that works for my device
No problem found. With lower versions i had problem with different voltage on different time/div.
Br
Stupsi

[alphaseek]

Jan, do you connect the UART pins to the USB module, and connect the USB cable to the computer, before you power up the scope? It seems this would apply 3.3V to Rx and Tx while the scope Vdd is still at 0V, and this would cause current to flow through the protection diodes. Is this a potential problem?

Well I think I will give the embedded module at try. I need to do some more testing though.

Here's a picture showing where the module would be placed. Of course it would conflict with the battery mod stuff.

[alphaseek]

Jan, it appears v110 has an option to transmit data out of J5. Is that done using the same USB-to-Serial adapter setup that's used for flashing? If so, then my idea of having JP1 automatically close when the USB cable is plugged in - that won't work. So I think your idea of using pin headers for all of this is the best solution. Embedding an adapter would just complicate things.

But if I'm right that JP2 can be permanently jumpered, then a single 5-pin right-angle header would handle both the Tx, Rx, GND group, and JP1. The 4th UART pin is +3.3V, which is what we need to connect to JP1. And the next pin is actually the GND pin of the SWD block, but that pin can be cut short so it isn't soldered to the board, but instead wired over to the Boot0 side of JP1. So jumper wires will connect the adapter to the TX, RX and GND pins, and if flashing new firmware the other two pins would be connected together with a pin jumper or with a single female-to-female jumper wire.

I'm assuming SWD would never need to be used.

What do you think?

[alphaseek]

Well, it turns out I was wrong about leaving JP2 bridged. The scope won't boot up normally that way. So both JP1 and JP2 have to be open for a normal boot, and bridged for flashing.

[jan]

Alphaseek ,

the best option is always discussable .................

i used an external uart and it worked for me without any problems .

the double jumpers are easy to manage too , and it won't interfere with other functions ( even to be ).

you can't go wrong here i have this mods on the unit from the day i assembled it .


let me know your progress.


jan

[MorganFlint]

...and the module 3.3V power output would be connected to JP1 (but not to the scope 3.3V rail). That would bring JP1 high when the USB cable is connected, and put the processor into flashing mode.

Good idea!, but if you want to use the serial port also for downloading captured data (as it's possible with firmware version 110, or with Toshi's firmware), a jumper would still be needed. EDIT: I Answered after reading the last post on the 1st page of this thread without noticing it continued in a 2nd page, so I didn't see this question was already considered in the following posts... Sorry!

That leaves JP2. From my reading of the ST datasheet and AN2606, JP2 could actually be tied low permanently, and the processor would boot normally so long as BOOT0 (JP1) is still low. In other words, the state of BOOT1 matters only when BOOT0 is high. Has anyone tried leaving JP2 bridged?

I've just tried, apparently boots normally. EDIT: After reading this I tried again, and it's true it doesn't boot. I must have done it wrong the previous time...

...Then it would be a question of mounting the module securely so that the USB socket is accessible Not sure how you would do that.

You could try any of the methods explained here for the micro USB charging modules, or in toshi's thread. I used hot melt glue as you can see here (1st and 2nd photos) or here (last photos).

[MorganFlint]

...Of course, it would conflict with the battery mod stuff.

Not necessarily, in fact, I was thinking to use a charging module without micro USB and use the +V output of the USB to serial module to feed it. Using the appropriate modules, there is enough space to include the USB to serial, the charging module and the boost converter.

[alphaseek]

I finished installing the pin headers for UART and for JP1 and JP2. I took over the SWD block for the JPs, and cut the existing traces going to DIO and CLK in that block, then used those postitions instead for the JPs, for which I used 30 gauge wire-wrap wire. Picture attached.

I don't know what you call them, but I use the little individual jumper blocks that connect two adjacent pins for the JPs. The JP1 pin is next to the 3.3V pin, and the JP2 pin is next to the GND pin. So I can just slide the little blocks onto each pair of pins. Then of course the three UART pins are connected individually to the USB-to-Serial adapter with jumper wires. (I assume this is done in crossover mode, with the Tx of one going to the Rx of the other. Please let me know if that's wrong.)

I haven't actually flashed using this setup yet because I'm waiting for the right jumper wires to arrive. But I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Of course it's critical to make sure the DIO and CLK traces really have been cut - should be infinite resistance between either of them and anywhere else on the board.

I think electronically there should be no problem embedding the USB-to-Serial adapter inside the case, and connecting GND, Tx and Rx (but not 3.3.V) permanently. But you would have to deal separately with JP1 and JP2, which I was hoping to be able to avoid. I decided not to do the embedded version, but that's just personal preference.

[maxastuto]

excuse me I did not understand how to update with the latest firmware.110. I have the DSO 150 with PCB main and PCB analogue versions 000E. Technical support provided me with the activation code after I sent the sticker code that was on the pcb card. I tried several times to switch on the DSO 150 by simultaneously pressing the SEC / DIV - TRIGGER AND ADJ keys, but no menu appears on the display.
By chance do you need to make the jumper on the JN1 and JN2?

[maxastuto]

thanks to the technical support guide I was able to update the dso 150 with the latest firmware .110. Then, with the activation code provided I managed to delete FFFF (it changed with another code with letters and numbers).
I noticed that with this new firmware it is possible to enter the menu and perform the calibration. Is it possible to know the exact procedure and the values to be entered? Thank you