RobNL,
There is always a loophole when it comes to taxes and customs. It just needs to be found and exploited.
Even if you didn't want to "fiddle the books" you could use Amazons "fulfilled by Amazon" service. You open a store and get JYE to ship the DSO 150's to Amazon. You watch a modest profit roll in, Amazon does the rest.
https://services.amazon.com/fulfillment ... s_fba_hnav.
Open a JYE store on Amazon, sell low and the customers will come. With a product like this, profits will not be made with high prices. Profits will be made by moving large amounts of product with a small margin. Heck, I will open the store if you like. PM me if you are interested JYE...
(Aziƫ don't resepct licence or patent)
And that is why the fakes will win in JYE's home market. Once the Genuine firmware is cracked, it will be an uphill struggle for JYE to make any sort of profit. I am surprised they do now, with all the fakes about.
Can you tell me whitch one is fake ?
Can you provide a photo that isn't blurry? lol
Alphaseek,
I'm glad things turned out well for you.
So am I friend, so am I.
I'm curious what version your analog boards are. The last official mention was version E, but some have seen version F.
How do I tell which version the analogue board is? I will have a look for you.
If you think you might want to do the battery conversion mod at some point
Already on it lol. I went with this tutorial when I built my fake.
https://youtu.be/7A36Mga0jsY.
I stripped a Nintendo DS Lite battery, soldered wires to the terminals and used it as a power source. Worked fine until I decided to update the firmware... (cough cough)
Since then I have been a bit dubious about the charger and step up converter he used in his build. I read that some components like this can cause interference when trying to read certain frequencies. I know there are charger units with the step up converter built in, but which one is the best?
I was also wondering if the DSO needed grounding once a battery is installed. Delicate instruments like multimeters for instance, usually have a metal plate attached to the inner casing which in turn is bought into contact with the ground plane of the circuit board. Usually, a spring is used for this purpose (at least in the cheaper models I have opened up.)
...possibly installing the encoder directly to the main board instead of using the daughterboard
did that too. I used a pair of ESD tweezers to carefully bend back each pin. I then put the encoder in place and used the tweezers to coax the pins into their holes, then soldered it in place. The two pins on the sides were trickier because of they only just kind of reached. I cranked the heat up on my soldering iron and made sure both points were thoroughly soldered to the board. I cannot get that encoder I soldered on my fake DSO mainboard off. I even tried a bit of hot air (no hvorfordetda, I didn't breath on it
![Mr. Green :mrgreen:](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
). My rework station started melting the encoder long before the solder started to melt.
I guess the next step is to flash the firmware, assemble one and then test it out.
![Cool 8-)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)